Phoebe Claire Riley – green man and silver birch costumes and other such things

Phoebe Claire RileyPhoebe Claire RileyUniversity of the Arts London Showtime site – in effect a market-place for their students of fashion, art  and design to share their works with the world.

At a time when they are still developing their art and finding their muse as it were. I will be interested to revisit some of these posts years, hopefully not too many years, from now to note how many of them have gone on to fame and fortune. It is important afterall that their art is seen by the widest audience possible – what good is art and fashion if no eyes ever alight upon it save the artist’s and close friends and accomplices.

Not that I am under any illusion that this humble blog of mine will contribute too much to their fame or fortune either – but who knows what post will go viral and what sink into the cyber-void…

Of course there is fame and there is fame, there is fortune and there is fortune. Only time itself will reveal whether they are the next Alexander McQueen, the next Sam Taylor-Wood.

The artist that caught my eye this week was Phoebe Claire Riley. She has a BA Honours Degree in Costume for Performance. I have always had a liking for costume design and consider it a pity that its leading exponents are not better known and courted, shunned instead for their more glamourous haberdashery clan-members of Couturiers and Ready-to-wear Designers. 

Phoebe Claire Riley

Hansel & Gretel, The Witch

Their work is more famous than they are but then perhaps that suits too – letting their work grab the limelight while they go quietly about their business unbothered by intruding microphones and camera lenses.

Their work for example quietly appearing in many a period film or TV costume drama – too many to mention – but what a gift Jane Austen has been to their tireless trade! Not that all costume work is 18th Century Gentrified Fashion I should quickly add!

So with Phoebe Claire Riley it is her work that may get more of the media attention than she herself.

There is but a brief biography of her on the showtime site thus:

I am an aspiring costume designer and a competent and creative maker and supervisor.
I enjoy working collaboratively and I am keen to learn and develop my skills further within employment.

And what a difficult time to be seeking employment too.

Though her bio is brief interestingly and perhaps instructively the tags she gives to this page are not – there are many and I am not going to list them all as you can see them for yourselves save just to list some of the more intriguing ones – Facebook like, St Exuperry’s King, conceited, Hansel and Gretel, costume cora, prunesquallor, boiled sweets – whether these tags resonate with you or are just too opaque I do not know!

On show is a sample of her work and her inspirations. I present a sample of that sample.

I shall do my best to keep up with her work – even if this might mean squinting through the rolling credits!

Phoebe Claire Riley

Cheeta’s Fuchsia, Titus Alone, the Gormenghast Trilogy

Sandhya Garg – a party of bold colours


Sandhya Garg Kathputli Look 1

Kathputli Look 1

Sandhya Garg is another alumni of the London College of Fashion, specifically a BA Honours Degree Graduate in Fashion Design Technology Womenswear.

Her Graduation collection along with its development work and illustrations are available to view on the University of the Arts London Showtime website.

Sandhya Garg

I do not know much about Sandhya Garg – I sought her on Google and Facebook and could not find her here, I sought her on Twitter and LinkedIn but could not find her there!

I only have to go on what she says about her collection on the Showtime page. Her training was at the Alexander McQueen Design Studio and Alice Temperley.

Sandhya Garg Nina De York 2011 Finalist Illustration

Nina De York 2011 Finalist Illustration

Sandhya Garg Kathputli Look 6

Kathputli Look 6

She describes the use of vintage techniques to hand-craft her final collection, in particular the hand-crafts of India. Going on to say that these intricate crafted techniques are then juxtaposed with blocks of bold primary colour.

The tags she uses for her collection are interesting and as insightful as her prose desription – these included hand-made crochet lace, vintage silk draw-strings, turban twist jacket, crystals, transfer print and pagri construction.

I posted yesterday about Mary Katrantzou and her bold statement ready to wear courtesy of creative print designs. Sandhya Garg has also produced a bold statement ready to wear collection – this time with colour.

As noted I do not have any more information about her but hey a picture speaks a thousand words and here come a mess of them!

The photography is by Vikram Kushwah, the model is Nimisha Desai.

Sandhya Garg Drawstring Detail

Drawstring Detail

University of the Arts London – Showtime for Samuel Way

Samuel Way London College Fashion Rangeboard


Samuel Way London College Fashion Green Shoes

Don’t step on my green suede shoes

Samuel Way London College Fashion Rubber Duckie shoes

Rubber Duckie

Samuel Way is another cordwainer Graduate from the London College of Fashion.

Another that is in the context of my last showtime post about Min Jung Chae.

In that post I commented that women’s shoes were in general a lot more creative and innovative then the more sober and conservative men’s shoe.

Samuel Way’s footwear designs are certainly not conservative, very definitely an exception to that rule.

He has a BA Honours Degree in Cordwainers Footwear, more specifically in their product design and development.

His Spring Summer 2012 collection is inspired by his own childhood nostalgia and uses very bold colours and block designs.

In his own words ‘… a menswear collection inspired by re-collective memories, themes like cartoon characters, board games and other childhood related products that I still feel nostalgic about’.

In this Showtime collection he worked toward this with a comical and toyish looking footwear.

All his shoes are hand-made.

Though this collection is focussed on men’s shoes he also produces women’s shoes such as a Jimmy Choo and H&M collaboration.

He now works as an apprentice for design company BSV International based in London.

I look forward more of his bold and creative footwear.Samuel Way London College Fashion

  • Jimmy Choo (

University of the Arts London – Showtime for Min Jung Chae

Min Jung Chae London College Fashion

Min Jung Chae London College Fashion

Wedding Shoes

Following my Showtime post on Yeashin Kim is a post on another South Korean graduate, Min Jung Chae.

She is a graduate too of the London College of Fashion – her degree though is in Cordwainers Footwear Design in addition to a BA Degree in textile fashion design from her home country. The London College of Fashion itself absorbed in 2000 the Cordwainer’s Technical College, its most famous alumni being Jimmy Choo.

I love shoes – not in a fetishistic way you understand! Especially women’s shoes – Men’s shoes I like too – Brogues, Oxfords, Doc Martens but, the latter not withstanding, the degrees of design difference between them is minimal – suggesting that in shoes at least men are the more conservative of the sexes.

A woman’s shoe is a much wider structural design platform – where not just craft and science is at work but art and magic. And art plus magic equals beauty – oh yes it does!

As part of this blog I did consider one of those No Comment features where daily I would include just a picture of a pair of shoes – from the aforementioned Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik, Kate Spade and on…no words as what more needs to be said – perhaps I still will – I will likely find they get more hits than my posts with words do!

Min Jung Chae is hoping to follow in their luxuriously heeled footsteps. She cites architectural and engineering structures particularly suspension bridges in terms of movement and harnessed restraint, whilst at the same time producing shoes that remain restrained and feminine.

The page which showcases her work as well as pictures of her shoe productions also include the development works, inspiration sketches and thought processes behind the designs.

I find her shoes both romantic and innovative.

I look forward to seeing more of her cordwainery in the future.Min Jung Chae London College Fashion

  • Jimmy Choo (

University of the Arts London – Showtime for Yeashin Kim

Yeashin KimYeashin KimFollowing my University of the Arts London showtime posts for Cherica Hayes and Max Dovey is this one for Yeashin Kim, from its London College of Fashion. Yeashin Kim is undertaking a BA Honours Degree in Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear. She is from Seoul, South Korea currently living in London, England. Her fashion pieces are multi-coloured and inspired by the sea – in particular corals and tropical fish. In her own words she believes that fashion is an art and its designers artists. She states that she wants to inspire joy with her works and cites inspiration in this from the Rococo period (late Baroque – art as an end in itself – art for art’s sake) and Antoine Watteau (one of its French practitioners) Yeashin KimShe states that what she cannot communicate in words she can in textiles. Finishing that she completes her work not just with her hands and eyes but her mind too. She already has an award to her name, the WGSN Global Fashion Awards 2011 for Most Creative Student Collection. Her work has been featured in Vogue and Glam along with a number of blogs. I have not been able to find a website for her or her works. She does have a Facebook page – though the option is to befriend rather than to follow! Showtime presents a lot of photographs of her works if not in any narrative form. They do though give you an idea of Yeashin Kim’s work. In addition to images of her works there are images of her inspirations such as tropical scenes and several Rococo art works – though sadly no details about the particular paintings. The standing man in clown suit I discovered through online research (yes I used Google Images!) is titled ‘Pierrot’. I share the belief of Yeashin Kim that Fashion is Art – or that it can be – and certainly consider her works as art. And so enough words – let the fashion speak for itself.Yeashin Kim

The Emotional Stockmarket – Love Makes the World Go Round…

The Emotional StockmarketEmotional Stockmarket GraphLove and Happiness are on the up, Sadness is in a slump – so reads The Emotional Stockmarket.

The Emotional Stockmarket is another University of The Arts Showtime venture – this one has part of their Summer Shows 2011 season where as you might imagine we are able to visit the shows, meet the artists and see their works. Such as this Emotional Stockmarket from Max Dovey as part of his BA in Fine Art from the Wimbledon College of Art.

Unfortunately this particular show was open to the public for one week only in June 2010.

The idea is to measure Happiness, Sadness and Love based on Twitterfeeds – the instances of tweets mentioning the words Happy, Sad and Love! This I think is something that could have been sustained on the website if they were so inclined?

I note that they include Sad with the Happy but not Hate with the Love. Perhaps though we would expect when Love is peaking Hate to be troughing but perhaps not – as both heartfelt emotions can be experienced simultaneously by different groups of people and similarly when both emotions are in a trough indifference reigns – perhaps I am thinking about this too much?!

During the June week that this market ran I checked my own tweets to see if any of mine would have contributed and lo one did – I wished all my followers a Happy Summer Solstice. All of my 16 followers! I use Twitter to talk to myself! And so my musings into the void got picked up afterall!

I guess if they were so inclined they could have regional emotional stock-markets – or even country by country – to see where the worlds happiness hotspots are!

Or by gender – are men or women the happier people – I really am thinking about this too much!

Are there other emotions they coud track? Hope and despair? Ennui? Pride? Fear? Jealousy? Or do all of these get swept up under their umbrella triumvirate of Happy Sad and Love?

I wonder too the comparison of the Emotional Stockmarkets with the equity and bond stockmarkets – would the United Kingdom’s FTSE 100 and the USA’s S&P 500 etc correlate – should we expect happiness to be tied in with material wealth?

Okay – I have ran with this idea enough – any more legs you can give it?!